Trad climbing cam sizing Be careful to make sure it is talking about cam sizes and not inches. Some climbers argue thumb loops are critical for ease of grabbing the cam to trigger and reducing the chance of accidentally dropping a cam, while other climbers find handling a cam with a thumb press just as easy. A common term used to describe a set of cams is ‘a standard rack’. Add Cams. Jul 15, 2021 · With all the climbing cams on the market its difficult to know which ones to buy. Selecting the Right Size Cam. Dec 19, 2019 · So what makes up a standard trad rack?It's not precisely defined, but it goes something like this: A double set of cams from . Whilst the sizing of the Master Cam is regular, one thing Sep 29, 2023 · Above: DMM Dragon (top), Wild Country Friend (bottom) Cam stems are made with either a thumb loop at the end of the stem or a thumb press. Cams are quick to place, hold exceptionally well, and are easy to clean. The WCs are basically C4s with extendable slings, but only go up to fist size. Below . 35) and two cams that were larger that 1. 80 cam ( maybe a 2. Compare Trad Climbing Cams. 3 size is anything the can’t get your fingers into, ‘tips size’, depending on your finger size . Cams are reliable and versatile pieces of trad protection that are designed to be placed in parallel sided cracks, where nuts won't work. This generally refers to a set of 6 cams ranging from a Black Diamond C4 size 0. WC: Off-fingers to fist size. 7º flared crack. 40 or 0. They use our innovative bi-color system to ease size selection and utilize doubled UltraTape slings so you can clip in at three different lengths. Sep 8, 2020 · The ranges and sizes of the Master Cams are as you would expect and, like the Zeros, they have only really have two sizes below regular cam sizes (00 and 0), although as the size 1 blue is 12. Metolious cams are in theory sized between BD, example a 6 metolious is between a BD #1 and #2. Class-leading expansion range and price. 35º for 40. Cams are considered active protection because the cam lobes expand and contract when the thumb trigger is pulled. 5 If it sounds hollow, see if you can find a different place to put the cam. 4. The totems add confidence in small cracks and pockets. Cams come in a variety of sizes, allowing you to place them in cracks smaller than a half-inch wide up to cracks that are more than five inches wide. Jun 4, 2025 · In rock climbing, a cam (short for camming device), is a piece of trad climbing gear that is used to protect the climber during a fall. Camalot™ C4 The world’s best-selling, most trusted cam. When the lobes are contracted, the cam is placed into the rock wall. They will hold anywhere from 8-12kN if placed well which is plenty for most lead falls. This Cam Size Comparison Chart helps you compare models against one another in terms of sizing and range of use. 10 sizes: #00 - 8, sizes 7 and 8 are new and very light for their size; Slings are replaceable, and should be replaced every five years or earlier; Color-coded 11 mm Monster sling, thumb piece and trigger; Range Finder system assists you in choosing the correct size cam; CNC machined for much greater precision than stamped or extruded cams; CE . . 5-18mm it does technically sneak in just below the smallest size regular cams of most brands. 4 to #3. However, such placements should be avoided if possible because the force exerted on cam components and the rock is greatly increased, which could lead to rock/cam failure or simply a small slide Apr 4, 2025 · The Metolius Ultralight Master Cams are tough enough to stand up to the abuse of aid climbing, but they lack thumb loops and our testers unanimously agree that cams with thumb loops like the Black Diamond Camalot Ultralights, Z4s, and the Wild Country Friends are better for aid climbing. This chart provides a straightforward, easy to interpret size comparison, to help you compare cam models against one another in terms of sizing and Jan 12, 2014 · If your plannin on chillin in the Creek all year you should spend all your money on BD #2's if your planning on more traditional climbing then a glorious set of stoppers a BD . Totems: smallest 4 sizes. Old route descriptions could mention gear in original wild country friend sizing. 3. Black Diamond. BD: big cams. Also, since totem makes amazing cams, I bet they can make amazing carabiners that would color match the cams! Just an idea. Flex Cams feature class leading range and are among the lightest 4-cams available. 4 and . Oct 1, 2020 · So you’ve taken up climbing, but decided that sport climbing is too soft and you’re looking for a bit more grit, pain, and fear. Now 10% lighter, the redesigned Camalot C4 has eclipsed our classic, cornerstone cams, and features a more modern design with new touch-points like a wider trigger for easier handling, and our innovative trigger keeper for compact racking with sizes #4, #5 and #6. 50 (maybe a 0. Black diamond cam sizes are not 1:1 with inches, for instance for a 3 inch crack you’d probably place a number 4. Each lobe is shaped according to a mathematical logarithmic spiral, so the angle between the lobes and the rock is always the same, no matter how retracted Compare different brands of trad climbing cams by range, weight, and strength. Well, trad climbing is your answer! Unlike the early days, modern trad climbers have access to gear such as spring-loaded camming devices, commonly known as cams. We’re here to help you choose the best climbing cams so you can jam your way up that next crack As flaring angle increases, the equivalent cam angle of Totem Cam increases from about 13º (for parallel cracks) to 20. Additionally, be careful with the age of the description. While the DMM Dragonfly cams are very small, flexible After a couple years trad climbing, here's what I would do if I had the money to build a new rack from scratch. It's very important to choose the right size cam for a crack to create the most secure Apr 26, 2025 · ‘Tier S’ cams !! All I want to use! I would love if there was at least one cam that was smaller than than the 0. A cam has three or four lobes mounted on an axle. 75 is baggy on the fingers but you can get your hands in yet. 75 and #1 maybe. 10 and 2. 50). My Rack. 5 is a size where you could jam your fingers in and get a good lock. Camalot C4. 5 to 2, one or two #3s and possibly one 4 (BD Camalots), a single or double set of finger sized and smaller cams, a complete set of stoppers, a good selection of micro stoppers, and 8-14 alpine quickdraws (double length sling with two lightweight wiregate carabiners). tinjh rprx oom hmcn bhvu bfzxl kxt minkz aybm mwvijre